Levuka
January 28, 2022
WORLD HERITAGE

In a similar manner to the case of Palau, the archipelago nation of Fiji currently possesses just a single Site on the World Heritage List. However, while Palau’s property is an incredible Natural Site, Fiji's entry is a more subdued Site in the Cultural category. Namely, the town of Levuka, an historic settlement located on the small, rugged island of Ovalau. Prior to the town’s establishment in 1820 there were only traditional-style communities scattered around the still-ununified archipelago. At that time, a steady stream of people from the wider World began to drift into the area, and they founded the first modern town in Fiji at Levuka.

For fifty years, the town continued to be a bustling and colorful outpost, populated by a motley collection of outsiders, including merchants, traders, crafters, deserters from various navies, missionaries, fishery workers, general ne’er-do-wells, and of course, local Fijians as well, making it the type of place that would be a perfect setting for a swashbuckling adventure story. Later, when an influential local chief, Seru Epenisa Cakobau, unified the islands and founded the Kingdom of Fiji, he made Levuka its capital. That status did not last long, however, as a few years later Cakobau ceded possession of the islands to British Colonial enterprises, and, a few years after that, the British moved the capital to Suva, ostensibly because the steep mountains encircling the town would prevent its expansion. Levuka’s rapid rise and equally speedy fall from favor meant that the site escaped many of the effects of continual redevelopment that had, over time, erased the original character of similar places around the World.

Today, however, only a portion of the original collection of buildings are still standing. For example, in the early years it was said that there were over fifty hotels in Levuka. Now, there is only one, The Royal Hotel, where I stayed during my visit, which claims to be the oldest continuously operating hotel in the South Pacific. As the decades passed, the town survived from the proceeds from a Sea Cucumber fishery, and as an important service and refueling stop for trans-Pacific ocean liners and cargo vessels. After 1950,when that particular form of transport, the only civilized way to cross oceans, faded from use, a modern cannery was built in the town, which still operates today, though with decidedly less character.

This is the type of lower-tier Site that would not be an especially valid reason on its own to undertake a very lengthy trip to Fiji just to visit. However, if one was already in the country, Levuka provides a pleasant enough place to spend a relaxing day or two. I certainly found my stay to be worthwhile, albeit in a fairly nuanced manner.

 Levuka shoreline
The town of Levuka, seen from the approaching ferry.

 Sacred Heart Church
Sacred Heart Church, the Catholic church of Levuka

 Beach Street
Beach Street, the commercial zone of Levuka

 Beach Street shopfronts
Shops on Beach Street

 Morris Hedstrom, Ltd
The original location of the Morris Hedstrom supermarket chain, now a Museum

 Workers Monument
A Workers Monument in Levuka

~End~